The Schödl Family winery is run by third generation siblings, Mathias, Viktoria and Leonhard, whose father was a professor of enology and who have converted the family’s vineyards to certified organic and practicing biodynamic. As is the case with many natural producers, they have decided to label their wines outside the strictures of their local protected designation of origin, Weinviertal, but this wine is absolutely clean and classic, nonetheless. Dorflagen, incidentally, means ‘villager,’ and St. Laurent (Sankt Laurent in German) is an Austrian grape thought to be a wild crossing of Pinot Noir and an unknown local vine. Like a Pinot Noir, the grape makes wines of high acidity and there are floral and cherry flavors in common as well, but the tannins are rounder and denser, and it has a deeper color. The grapes for this St. Laurent are hand harvested and then allowed to soak for a few days in cold temperatures before beginning fermentation in order to absorb delicate floral and cold fruit aromas before fermenting for 10 days. After some post fermentation skin contact to pick up even more color, tannins and flavor, the wine rests in big oak casks of 2000L for a year. Black pepper, plum, cherry and cherry pit, red apple skin, violets, kirsch, spice and tobacco flavors unveil themselves as the wine develops in the glass. A little bit less acidic than Pinot Noir, the velvety tannins and long finish make this a perfect compliment for grilled red meats and even burgers.